Let's Talk Turquoise

I could really geek out here and write all about the minutia of turquoise, a sedimentary metamorphic rock comprised of hydrated hydroxyl phosphate of copper and aluminum but, I think we are all just here for the jewelry. I mean, I am. Although I’d love to spend a day digging around in the dirt and learning about geology and all that business.

Just like other gem stones, not all turquoise is created equal. In fact, turquoise from the same mine can vary vastly in quality. Turquoise is a relatively soft stone. On the Mohs Hardness scale it ranges between 1-6. The very best turquoise is hard with vibrant color, interesting matrix and a good cut. Many factors contribute to the value of any given stone. Stones from certain mines that have since closed or only produced a small amount of turquoise are desirable because of rarity. Other mines produce stones of a certain color or with a certain matrix that many people like.

Turquoise that comes out of a mine and is already hard enough to be shaped into a cabochon is called natural. Generally speaking, natural stones are considered the best. Most turquoise isn’t that hard. Most turquoise needs to be stabilized in one way or another. If you’re interested, this is a great guide to the different treatment methods.

In the United States, turquoise mines are found in the Southwest. California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado have or have had mines. Turquoise has played a large part in the culture of the Native Americans from this area. “Sky Stone” looms large in both secular and religious beliefs. I love American turquoise for this reason. However, there is gorgeous high grade turquoise being mined in Asia and South America that I’ve come to really love.

I use both natural and stabilized turquoise in my jewelry. I am most interested in high grade natural, but ultimately the deciding factor when I purchase stones is beauty. Sometimes I am able to get a stabilized stone that would otherwise be too expensive for my retail price point if it were natural. Sometimes I just flat out fall in love with a specific stone that happens to be stabilized.

One of the most beautiful aspects of turquoise is that it ages with the person that wears it. Because turquoise is a relatively soft and porous stone, it absorbs oils from skin and other substances it is exposed to by the wearer. Old pieces of turquoise can become darker and richer in color. Some of these stones become very collectible because of their character.

Above is a row of Fred Harvey cuffs circa 1930’s with “greasy green” stones.

So, in conclusion, what I’m really trying to say here is that while I tend to buy really high quality American stones, sometimes I just buy what I think is the prettiest stone in the display case. And that’s okay. You should also buy jewelry because you like it and not necessarily because it’s the best of the best. I want my customers to love their jewelry so much they wear it all the time. Then years down the road someone can find it with a great patina on it, maybe a cracked greasy green stone and the makers mark nearly worn off because who cares who made it. It’s who owned it that really matters.